Three Perfect Days: A Trip to Panama

Once in Panama, I knew my first stop had to be Casco Antiguo, Panama City’s historic district. Considered a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site, the district dates back to 1673 and is a maze of narrow streets, bustling plazas and vibrant buildings.

The quarter is breathtaking. In the main square, Indigenous performers dance to flute songs in front of the Metropolitan cathedral. As the country’s largest church, its Spanish colonial facade is an effortless picture of cultural heritage and religious significance. As I duck inside, I’m immediately met with a statue of a man holding a broom and standing next to a cat, dog and mouse drinking from the same bowl. The man is Martín de Porres, the Peruvian-born patron saint of mixed-race people and those who seek racial harmony.

Casco Antiguo’s brick-paved streets are lined with an assortment of businesses, like I Love Panama Chocolate. The shop might be a tourist attraction, but its chocolatiers are true craftsmen, telling the history and culture of Panama through chocolate bars and other tasty creations.

For lunch, I tried Cantina del Tigre, a ceviche-centric place that earned a spot on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023. Inside, the design plays off the restaurant’s name with walls covered in massive tiger paintings. Chef Fulvio Miranda’s food is equally as bold, with a menu that reimagines traditional Panamanian cuisine and serves specialty cocktails.

Food isn’t the only thing that can help you discover Panama’s rich past. At El Palacio del Sombrero, I find two of Panama’s most popular hats. The first is an Ecuadorian toquilla, nicknamed the “Panama hat” after Teddy Roosevelt was photographed wearing one during the construction of the canal. The other is a Panamanian classic, the sombrero pintao, woven from natural fibers with a floppier structure.

I also toured Museo de la Mola, a gallery dedicated to the traditional clothing of the Indigenous Guna people of Panama and Columbia. Molas are intricate fabric panels that women wear around their chests and backs. They traditionally feature patterns of animals, deities and mythical creatures.

For dinner, Ariel Zebede’s A to Z Chef’s Table is a tasting menu spot hidden from the street behind a secret bookshelf. Think speakeasies during prohibition. Around a horseshoe-shaped counter, a small team dishes out an immersive 10 to 12-course meal. Delight in the intimate setting with globally inspired dishes created from Panama’s freshest ingredients. A to Z truly embodies its home city, where mystery and excitement are tucked behind every corner.

For a place to stay, it was Hotel La Compañía. In the heart of Casco Antiguo, the hotel blends three eras of Panama’s history with a refreshing modern design. Guests can choose a beautifully designed room in the Spanish colonial wing, dating back to 1688; the French Colonial wing, built by Jesuit priests in 1739; or the Beaux-Arts rooms in the American wing, dating back to 1904.

Today, I’m headed to Panama’s Caribbean shore. Portobelo is a hub for Afro culture, which is rooted in the country’s history of enslaved people and African origins.

The winding roads hug the shoreline as we pass diablos rojos, American school buses repurposed for public transportation splattered with colorful paintings of characters like Mickey Mouse and the Minions. On the ride, Rios, our driver, tells me about the Congo dance and how it was created by enslaved Africans as a form of protest.

We arrive at Casa de la Cultura Congo. The public center is an inclusive space overlooking Portobelo Bay where visitors come to interact with various forms of Congo art and learn about the city’s deep colonial Latin and African legacy. Professor Aristela Blandón Bristán, a promoter of Congo culture, greeted us in a pollera, a traditional two-piece dress made from fine fabrics and handmade embroidery.

From there, Rios and I stroll through Portobelo’s UNESCO-designated fortifications. The now-protected military forts were built in the 17th and 18th centuries by the Spanish Empire. Visitors can still come across the same cannons used to defend Panama centuries ago.

The Panama Canal’s Agua Clara Visitor Center is only a quick detour on the way to Portobelo. Experience unparalleled views of the canal’s operations, a projection room which offers the canal’s history and an ecological trail to explore Panama’s vibrant biodiversity. There, on a platform next to the man-made Gatún Lake, I watch a tiny tugboat guide a massive cargo ship into the lock. The freighter then begins its 85-foot, stair-step descent to the Caribbean Sea.

Dinner tonight is at Intimo in the San Francisco neighborhood. As the name suggests, it’s a romantically candle-lit space with only 28 seats. Their small kitchen uses no imported fish or meat, operating under a 90/10 philosophy; 90% local product, 10% imported. This dining experience aims to reflect the truth of Panama and its local agriculture.

Casco Antiguo is a melting pot of Panama’s rich cultural diversity and history. The surrounding lands offer the same. So, I visited Chagres National Park, less than an hour’s drive from the city center. However, it is recommended to schedule a tour guide as the park has limited infrastructure.

At the park, explore one of Panama’s most important rivers, the Chagres River, and the remains of the Camino Real, an old colonial route used to transport goods through the country from coast to coast. Experienced hikers can discover streams and waterfalls through rugged paths, while others enjoy watersports or fishing.

We drive into the Darien rainforest, home to 12,000 members of the Indigenous Emberá Tribe. At a wide spot in the Chagres River, we’re met by a member of the tribe, who offers us a ride in a canoe carved from a wild cashew tree. The boat is outfitted with a motor, but he wields a long pole to push us out of the shallows. Taken by the current, I watch toucans fly overhead and bright blue morpho butterflies glide on the breeze.

Just a quick drive away is Amador Causeway. The 3.7-mile road links the mainland to the islands Naos, Perico and Flamenco and was built with rocks mined during the construction of the canal. I was also lucky enough to sneak a quick visit to Biomuseo, a museum designed by architect Frank Gehry. The museum highlights Panama’s unique impact on global biodiversity alongside the country’s own commitments to protecting the environment.

Back in Panama City, my final dinner is at Maito, which has spent the last seven years on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Chef Mario Castrellón serves a tasting menu that lovingly reinterprets simple national dishes, drawing inspiration from Afro, Asian and Caribbean cuisine. With every bite, I am flooded with new appreciation for the how Panamanians elevate and remix their culture for the world to enjoy. Between the food, striking landscapes and eye-opening cultural experiences, I wouldn't be surprised to find myself packing for Panama again soon.