Three Perfect Days: Rome

Over the millennia, Romans have layered civilizations over previous ones. Power fluctuated, societies shifted and Catholicism found a home. The result? See for yourself.

Things to do and see

A day in Rome deserves a proper start: espresso. Antico Caffè Greco has been serving coffee since 1760. Only a few things beat a cappuccino and fresh cannoli served by waiters in long-tailed black jackets as Renaissance oil paintings decorate the walls around you.

Nearby is the Spanish Steps, a 300-year-old terraced stairway that climbs from the Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità dei Monti church. Even at 9 a.m., throngs of tourists will flood the stairs, snapping selfies and taking in the view. This is just the beginning of Roman history; the stairs are only one window into this city's past.

The Colosseum is another. Completed in 80 AD, it remains the largest amphitheater ever built. Today, visitors come to imagine an ancient world, but long ago, this was a public venue for entertainment, like gladiator shows and animal hunts. Its sheer size dominates, discolored stones glinting in the sun, revealing the spots where the structure has been reinforced for preservation.

Adjacent is the Arco di Costantino, a 1,700-year-old arch dedicated to emperor Constantine the Great. From here, pass through the Arco di Tito to reach the top of Palatine Hill, often considered the nucleus of Ancient Rome. Wander through what remains of the Iron Age settlements, Roman aristocratic residents and imperial palaces. Time and conflict have withered these once-colorful marble mansions down to their bones.

From the top of the hill, look down on the excavated ruins of the Forum, a museum that preserves what was once day-to-day life in Ancient Rome. It was here that bustling markets, public speeches and elections took place. Now, it’s a beautifully devastating graveyard of sun-bleached stones.

After all the walking, you’re probably ready for lunch. Ai Tre Scalini is a 1,200-year-old former winery turned bar and restaurant. The dining room is decorated with Elvis impersonator records and Carnival masks, and the food is prepared with true care. Just be warned, the establishment doesn’t accept reservations.

Now, it's time to shop. Rome is a fashion capital, home to superior stores and curated clothes, especially along streets like Via Margutta. Its stores, like PuntoPelle, a leather jacket shop decorated with mementos from celebrity customers, draw visitors from across the world. Shop. Wander. Maybe bruise your bank account. But everyone deserved a chic memento or two.

Dinner is just down the block at Le Jardin de Russie, the signature restaurant of Hotel de Russie. Walk through the chic courtyard bar and climb a grand staircase to the garden dining area for a menu of dishes inspired by the region.

After dinner, wander back along Via del Babuino toward Piazza di Spagna. It’s been a long day, and you’re likely exhausted, but the Spanish Steps, lit by the full moon, will draw you in for a final moment of awe.

Vatican City is a self-governing city-state surrounded by Rome. It’s also the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church. Over 1,700 years of history reside here. It is a potent place where centuries of human history, conflict and power decorate its halls. Regardless of religion, Vatican City is an essential stop.

Thing to do and see

First, you must see the Sistine Chapel, built in 1473 and still the location of many papal ceremonies. When you enter, pause in the center, look up and let the almost inconceivable grandeur and artistry take your breath away. You’re looking at Michelangelo’s series of ceiling frescoes, often considered one of the greatest works of art in the world.

However, St. Peter’s Basilica might be even more impressive. The church is a masterpiece of Renaissance and Baroque architecture, with ceilings stretching to the sky, all drenched in gold and marble. Opulence is almost too little of a word. There are many beautiful churches in the world, but this place is in a league of its own.

Many tours will also guide you through The Vatican Museums and the 24 galleries that house masterpieces from Ancient Rome through the Renaissance, like The Gallery of Geographic Maps, a long hall lined with 40 topographical frescoes and woven carpets commissioned in 1580 to portray all the regions of Italy.

After a morning filled with priceless history, head to the eight-story tall Rinascente flagship store in Trevi for even more ancient wonder. On the bottom floor of the luxury department store is a 2,000-year-old aqueduct tucked behind a retail display.

Nearby, Trastevere is a bohemian neighborhood of narrow cobblestone streets and graffiti that clings to its working-class roots. Make your way to Piazza di Santa Maria, where tourists sit and eat gelato on the fountain in front of the Basilica di Santa Maria.

Inside the church, 12th- and 13th-century mosaics and ornate gold detailing cover the walls. Take a moment to explore, letting Rome's secret corners reveal themselves to you. This is a city built over centuries, a place where every building has a story. Get curious and see what you discover.

Head to Testaccio, another historically working-class, now-trendy neighborhood, for dinner at Marco Martini. The Michelin-starred restaurant serves traditional Roman fare amid a pleasantly lit winter garden.

End the night with a cocktail at Drink Kong, a Japanese futurist lounge that boasts stylish crowds. A neon sign proclaims, “It was beauty that killed the beast." There's a poster of Rutger Hauer on the Blade Runner set and a collection of vintage arcade games.

Things to do and see

If you’re in Rome on a Sunday, start your day at the Porta Portese flea market. Weave through tent-shaded tables set up behind a centuries-old city gate in Trastevere. The stalls brim with handbags, sunglasses and leather goods as people heckle vendors and bargain for goods.

From there, cross the Tiber River and climb a winding stairway up Aventine Hill to the scent of orange blossoms wafting from the Giardino degli Aranci. Up here, you could spend hours watching the tiled roofs and ancient structures of Rome sprawl before you.

Continuing along the river, you’ll eventually reach the Great Synagogue of Rome. Many consider Rome a Catholic city, and while its presence is irrefutable, other religions still thrive here, like Judaism. However, in 1555, Pope Paul IV restricted the city’s Jewish community to this small, often-flooded area next to the Tiber. The Jewish Museum of Rome, located inside the synagogue, walks visitors through the complex and challenging history of the Jewish people in Rome.

Nearby is Casalino Osteria Kosher, where you can try a typical Roman Jewish dish: the carciofo alla giudia, or Jewish-style artichoke, for lunch.

Afterward, head to the Largo di Torre Argentina, an ancient square where historians believe Roman senators assassinated Julius Caesar in 44 BCE. All across the square, stray cats lounge in the nooks of the old stone walls.

If you need a reprieve from the sun-soaked streets, escape into the tranquil garden of Lumen at The St. Regis Rome for a light bite or drink. The hotel was opened by César Ritz in 1894 and is now surrounded by some of the city’s most sensational sights. Among them are the 1,700-year-old Terme di Diocleziano baths, the monumental Fontana del Mosè and the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria, which houses its own famous Bernini statue.

Think of Lumen as the appetizer to a quintessential Roman meal. Just a stroll away from the St. Regis, past the Palazzo Quirinale and down an alley is Piccolo Arancio, a charming restaurant lined with distressed mirrors and wine bottles. Relax at your table and share a sampling of classic, homey dishes and local Frascati white wine.

Right around the corner is your last stop: the Fontana di Trevi. The famed Baroque fountain is said to be brilliantly lit up at night, which is true, and less crowded with tourists than during the day, which is false.

Wade through the crowd to the water’s edge, turn away from the grand marble statues and pause. You only have one wish. Then, with your right hand, toss a coin over your left shoulder. As they say, when in Rome.