Three Perfect Days: A Trip to Singapore

I meet Simon Wong, co-founder of Singapore Sidecars, on a street corner in the Joo Chiat neighborhood. Joo Chiat is home to the Peranakan community (those of mixed Chinese and Malay or Indonesian decent). What were once sprawling coconut and cotton plantations are now streets lined with shophouses and antique homes dating back to the 1800s.

The next hour is spent in the sidecar of Simon’s vintage Vespa, zooming through the bustling streets of Joo Chiat and nearby Katong. We whip past shops, restaurants, places of worship and bungalows while Simon gives an engaging history lesson. Our tour finishes at Kim Choo Kueh Chang, for nyonya kuehs (bite-size traditional Southeast Asian cakes).

Next, I’m off to Little India, where the scents of curry, rich spices, fresh produce and sea salt wafts in the breeze. All around, there are leftover Diwali decorations from the celebrations two days before. And right in front of me is Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. One of Singapore’s oldest temples, the exterior is covered in colorful figures of Hindu deities. But the chief deity is the temple’s namesake, a powerful Goddess and Destroyer of Evil.

I find the best way to explore a new place is through food. In Singapore, that means spending time at hawker centers (food centers) or street vendors. So, I head to the Tekka Centre, a wet market, hawker and shopping mall. If you like bold flavors, the biryani from Yakader Muslim Foods is for you. For handmade naan, stop by Delhi Lahori. And for a lighter dish, try Heng Gi Goose & Duck Rice.

Up next is Chinatown… and another hawker center. Chinatown Complex has a wide variety of food, from laksa (a spicy coconut curry noodle soup with chicken, prawns or fish) to xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) to cendol (an iced sweet dessert). Pro tip: Visit a hawker center with a group. You can sample much more food without risking a food coma by overdoing it on your own.

Nearby is the Chinatown Street Market. Gradually, I pick my way through vendors selling prints, fans, jewelry, clothes and souvenirs until I turn the corner and come face-to-face with the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Its bright red exterior shines from the street, and inside ornate gold accents compliment traditional Chinese design. Photos are not allowed inside, but you can take them on the roof, which hosts a garden and a Vairocana Buddha Prayer Wheel, turned by the temple’s faithful.

For dinner, and the second to last stop of today’s food tour, I try Keng Eng Kee. This Singaporean favorite opened 53 years ago. Jiamin Liew now runs the family business three generations later with her two brothers. Every day, they serve moonlight horfun (rice noodles with seafood, Chinese sausages and egg), coffee pork ribs, claypot liver and their signature chili crab with steamed buns. Their creations and flavors embody the cultural melting pot that makes Singapore so special.

For Jiamin, it’s not just about the food. She grew up in this restaurant. She celebrated major life events here. This is her home, an essential piece of her life. Those who eat here are family. As her grandmother always said, “Treat them like your friend, not your customer.”

I have one more stop on today’s food adventure: I have to try Singapore’s unofficial national fruit. Durian is a spiky tropical fruit known for its smell. When I get to 99 Old Trees Durian, I let the experts guide me. To be honest, was it my favorite? No. Was it terrible? Also, no. I mostly tasted a garlicky sweetness, some bitterness and an aftertaste that lasted for hours (even after brushing my teeth).

Day over and stomach full, I head back toward Chinatown to my hotel: the Mondrian Singapore Duxton. With nine different restaurants and bars and a rooftop pool with a killer view, this hotel has just about everything you could need, including a bed and slippers so comfortable it doesn’t take much for me to slip into that aforementioned food coma.

Today, I swapped endless food sampling for relaxation and nature. Sungei Buloh is a wetland reserve in the northern part of Singapore. It’s famous for bird watching and spotting other wildlife, like monitor lizards, small snakes, crocodiles and otters. The park also offers fantastic hiking, but make sure you wear mosquito repellent with DEET.

After my hike, I trade the wetlands for another terrain: the beach. But rather than renting a car to Sentosa Island and Palawan Beach, I take the cable car system. The Mount Faber Line to Sentosa on the Singapore Cable Car (and I do opt for the orb-shaped car with a glass bottom) brings me right to the beach. At Palawan, you can swim, sunbathe or walk across the bridge to Palawan Island where you’ll find the southernmost point of continental Asia and the 90-degree coconut tree, a tree whose trunk is bent at a 90-degree angle.

Next, I make a pit stop at Fong Seng Nasi Lemak. Nasi lemak is a Malaysian dish made with coconut rice, pandan leaf (a Southeast Asian tropical plant), Malaysian sambal (chili sauce), eggs and anchovies. I add chicken to mine. It’s a little spicy. It’s rich. It’s flavorful. And it’s exactly what I need.

Singapore has become a booming wellness destination thanks to a cultural emphasis on holistic health, traditional medicine and activities like yoga, nature walks and massages. So, it feels right for my first ever spa experience to be here. Spas, like Auriga Spa at Capella Singapore, create an oasis that feels completely isolated from the concrete jungle just outside.

Leaving The Spa feeling revitalized, I head straight to dinner at Air CCCC, a newer addition to Singapore’s culinary scene. Air is a sustainability-driven restaurant that believes in community and low waste. “We’re meticulous in sourcing and seeing where things come from and how they’re grown, how they’re caught,” says Head Chef Kris Lord. This mindset doesn’t just determine the food. Everything from the furniture to the glass jars used for fermentation come from recycled material. Air also often partners with other restaurants and hosts events, like an experimental cooking academy and lawn picnics.

I’m in the mood for a nightcap, so after dinner I head to Fura, recently awarded Asia’s Most Sustainable Bar in 2024. Their menu centers around ingredients that are considered to be in excess or pests, resulting in unique drinks and dishes you can’t find anywhere else, like their jellyfish martini or locust garum (a fermented sauce).

Tonight, I’m staying at the Grand Hyatt Singapore on Orchard Road, a popular shopping area. Despite the hotel’s central location, my room’s dark paneled walls and olive green carpeting lend to a relaxing space. The hotel is most known for StraitsKitchen, a buffet Anthony Bourdain once called, “Pretty damn good.” With dishes that are authentic, fresh and made from scratch, I can understand why he liked it.

Today is what I like to call tourist day, so I’m trying everything in Singapore that you typically see on TikTok.

Gardens By the Bay is made up of three distinct gardens (Bay East, South and Central). Bay South Garden is the most well-known, which includes a seven-story cooled conservatory (not greenhouse) inside a geometric dome. I visit Cloud Forest (and one of the tallest indoor waterfalls) and Flower Dome, full of plants from around the world, including centuries old olive trees.

Paul Chong, a horticulturalist at the gardens, describes them as, “like seeing an artwork being put together. Seeing a new flower in bloom gives you a sense of discovery too".

Inspired by Paul and sticking to today’s theme, I head to the nearby ArtScience Museum, a space with exhibits that explore science and technology. I choose an immersive, digital installation that discusses nature, space and marine biology, available in both English and Chinese.

Atop the Marina Bay Sands is SkyPark Observation Deck. From 56 stories high, I take in my favorite view of the city with a drink in hand. Back downstairs, I stop by the Merlion, a lion-mermaid hybrid and emblem of Singapore. It’s not uncommon to see locals and tourists roaring right along with the iconic statue.

I grab lunch at Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, a Michelin-starred hawker. The star is no surprise; it’s one of my favorite meals of the trip. But you might want to get there early because this hawker is in high demand

Now it’s time to do some shopping. Orchard Road is known for luxury brands. However, Haji Lane is trendier and full of unique boutiques and shops.

Eventually, I’m all shopped out, so I stop by my hotel, the Mandarin Oriental Singapore, to drop off my things. Sunlight pours into the open lobby, welcoming guests inside. With a pool, restaurants, bars and even a library, almost every floor has a place to relax. With some time to kill, I stop by The Spa before grabbing dinner at Embu, the hotel buffet.

It’s time to return to Gardens By the Bay, but this time to the Supertree Grove. The Supertrees are artificial trees reinforced by live plants. You can go to the observatory at the top or walk across the suspended bridge. There’s something magical about watching the sun fall below the horizon on top of a giant tree. I get down just in time to watch the light show, set to a mashup of classical music, which plays twice every night

Before the night’s over, I need to check one more thing off my list: a drink at Jigger & Pony. Named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2024, they focus on classic cocktails with a twist. Their manhattan, made with chocolate bitters and topped with a chocolate-stemmed cherry, is the perfect closer for a great day.

Back at my hotel, I sink into a chair at the window and peer out at a view of Marina Bay Sands and the Singapore Flyer. It’s still hard to believe I’m here, more than 9,000 miles away from home, flying solo. Tomorrow may mark the end of this adventure, but that just means I’ll have to find a new one.

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