Three Perfect Dishes: Montreal
Two people eat a plate of poutine – fries topped with cheese curds and gravy.

Poutine is perhaps the most famous of Montreal’s signature dishes. Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.

Three Perfect Dishes: Montreal

Andrew MorrellDecember 11, 2024

Montreal’s rich culture and diversity lends to its thriving culinary scene that feels impossible to experience in one trip. But most locals will agree there are three dishes every first-time traveler there must try. Here’s what you need to know and where to find the three perfect dishes that define Montreal.
Montreal style bagels with sesame seeds and poppy seeds available for purchase at a bakery.
Montreal has a rich history of bagel-making with its own unique style. Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.

Bagels

New Yorkers, stand back: Another North American city has laid its claim to mastering this breakfast staple. And trust me, Montreal does it well – just in its own, unique way.

The Montreal bagel is made with eggs, no salt, and is boiled in water sweetened with honey before being baked in a wood-fired oven. The result is a more dense, sweeter specimen that would probably repulse residents of all 5 boroughs. But trust me, it’s excellent, even if it might be an acquired taste for Americans. Toppings or flavors consist of sesame seeds and, well, nothing else – a far cry from the “everything” seasoning Americans know and cherish.

There is some explanation for these differences. Montreal’s large Jewish community mostly migrated from Poland and other Eastern European countries. This style of bagel, now considered a Montreal signature, stemmed from the same ingredients and methods they used in the old country.

Strong opinions abound in bagel world, even locally: Asked where to find the best bagel, Montrealers tend to be strongly divided between 2 landmark establishments, both only a few blocks from each other and with shared origins. In one camp are those who prefer Fairmount Bagel Bakery, which officially opened in 1949 but is said to have roots as far back as 1900. The other establishment, St-Viateur Bagel, was opened in 1953 by a Fairmount Bagel baker who decided to open his own shop.

No matter which bagel they choose, Montrealers can all agree that their version is best eaten fresh from the store, with nothing more than a plain schmear.

A Montreal-style smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz’s Deli rests on a plate, consisting of many slices of pink, marbled smoked brisket drizzled with mustard and piled between two pieces of light rye bread.
The classic Montreal-style smoked meat sandwich at Schwartz’s Deli is a no-frills favorite. Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.

Smoked meat

Continuing the streak of Montreal staples rooted in Jewish immigrant culture, the smoked meat sandwich is another must-try meal. Montreal-style smoked meat is like corned beef or pastrami but with a twist. The process starts with beef brisket, which gets cured in a spice blend for days. The meat then goes in a smoker for eight hours and is steamed for another three hours. Then, the tender beef is finally ready to be sliced thin and piled high onto rye bread, topped with nothing more than a dab of classic yellow mustard.

Perhaps the most famous smoked meat sandwich in Montreal is made at Schwartz’s Deli. Opened in 1928 by the Romanian-Jewish immigrant Reuben Schwartz, the restaurant feels like a time machine back to the 1960s.

Besides the savory sandwiches and other classic Montreal cuisine on the menu, the establishment is also famous these days for its owners, who as of 2012 include Quebec’s own Celine Dion. Along with a group of restaurant partners which initially included Dion’s late husband, she has been hailed as a savior for the business after it fell on hard times in the 21st century. While she might not make regular appearances at the deli, it remains crowded with patrons on an average day thanks to its modern status as a local landmark.

A dish that has gained global fame, poutine is a true Quebecois delicacy.
A plate of poutine – consisting of french fries, cheese curds and gravy – sits on a small plate at a diner. Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.

Poutine

What would a trip to Canada be without a healthy portion of poutine? The world-famous dish of french fries topped with cheese curds and gravy first appeared in the 1950s as a staple of Quebec’s humble greasy spoon diners and snack bars (casse-croûtes in the local parlance). The dish made its way to Montreal by the 1980s, where it became a hit in the city’s late-night eateries. Poutine caught on as a characteristically Canadian dish around the world, but Quebec natives proudly claim it as rightfully theirs, an example of their unique cultural identity.

Visitors can find poutine at any classic deli, including Schwartz’s. But thanks to world-wide fame, the dish is now a common menu item at even some of Montreal’s most elite and well-regarded restaurants. You can try it Haitian-style topped with braised pork at Casserole Kréole; go old-school at classic casse-croûte Chez Claudette; or made with just about any ingredient imaginable (pulled pork, guacamole and more) at La Banquise.

Montreal is a food city par excellence, but these three items are just the very tip of the iceberg when it comes to the amazing cuisine offered throughout the city. Before you visit, prepare your taste buds to experience the full spectrum of amazing flavors from all over the world that you’ll find on every block.

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