Three Perfect Days: Nice

Flying in, Nice looks like a tray of jewels perched on the water’s edge. The stunning coastal city sits comfortably in the southeast of France, with an international airport a quick drive away. Here, the Mediterranean lifestyle flourishes. Nice breathes creativity, elegance, relaxation and a bit of exploration.

Things to do and see

Promenade des Anglais

This public walkway runs roughly four and a half miles along Nice’s coast. As you stroll along, pass artists setting up their easels, prepping to capture the pink sky awakening over a calm sea and waterside cafés opening for the day.

Plage de la Réserve

Just under the promenade, this small public beach is where locals meet to swim. Here, you’ll find teenagers cliff jumping from the steep rocks like plunging birds. If you’re looking to relax in the sun, there are lounge chairs for purchase.

Librairie Masséna

This charming independent bookstore is near Lou Pilha Leva, one of Nice’s historic bakeries and a must-stop for an addictive slice of socca (chickpea flatbread).

The Old Town

Also called Vieux Nice, Old Nice is a tightly woven spiral of cobblestone streets that open onto charming squares dotted with Baroque churches. Second-story windows overflow with flowers, while laundry lines with blowing linens run between buildings.

When wandering Old Town check out:

• Marché aux Fleurs: A famous open-air and flower marker. Under striped canvas shelters, farmers and florists display their goods: Brightly colored bouquets, ripe eggplants, tomatoes and strings of garlic. Glide between stalls of fresh produce, while tourists and locals chat with the vendors.

• Colline du Château (Castle Hill): For the best view overlooking Nice’s Old Town and the bay, climb the winding staircase to this stunning hilltop park. Don’t miss Cascade Dijon, a man-made waterfall, and the ruins of the 12th-century church that once stood here.

• Ooh Poo Pah Doo: Come here for a Northern Soul dance party. Maybe it’s the music, maybe it’s the unfamiliar surroundings, but you’ll find yourself dancing with strangers for hours.

Where to eat and drink

Bistrot d’Antoine

This popular bistro in Old Nice serves simple French food prepared with the highest quality. It’s no wonder the place is always full. You’ll find locals dining alongside tourists, tables sharing fresh fish or beef tartare.

Shapko Bar

At night, the city fills with music thanks to Nice’s strong connection to American jazz. This intimate bar has sets all night, a space filled with people and music.

After a 40 minute-drive west next to the glistening Mediterranean, you’ll hit the quaint town of Antibes. Like many other coastal towns, Antibes was once a fishing village. Yet, unlike Nice and Cannes, much of its history remains along the docks.

Things to do and see

Port Vauban

A handful of fishermen leave town every morning to set up shop next to the Antibes Harbor. If you’re up early enough, you can watch them prepare their fresh catch while everything from small fishing ships to imposing yachts rock in the water behind them.

Marché Provençal

This daily market had countless stands, and some families have been selling here for generations. Sweet lavender wafts between vendors selling wild boar sausages, piles of olives, fig confit and other local products.

Musée Picasso

This museum is located at the Grimaldi Castle, Antibes’ highest point. Picasso used the building as his studio for a few months in 1946. Bidding farewell to Antibes, he left behind 23 paintings and 43 sketches. These have become the nucleus of an astonishing collection of drawings, ceramics, graphic work and full-scale paintings. The museum also often has limited-time exhibitions showcasing other artists.

Tirepoil Trail

The 3.1-mile path begins at the Cap d’Antibes and ends at the white sands of Garoupe Beach. For centuries, this tiny strip of land was controlled by the wealthy owners of the waterside villas here. But today, the footpath belongs to the public.

Where to eat and drink

Lilian Bonnefoi

This master chocolatier opened this pâtisserie and chocolate shop in 2015. “Chocolate,” he says, “Is a medium that continues to evolve.” For Bonnefoi, that means local sourcing: almonds from Aix-en-Provence, figs from Grasse and mandarins from Cannes. One of his buttery croissants and a detox juice are the perfect hangover cure, in case you need one.

Bistrot Margaux

Located in Port Vauban, this restaurant’s tagline is “Cooking the way it used to be.” Enjoy a menu inspired by authentic French cooking and seasonal produce while lounging amid the restaurant's warm and rustic environment. Experience what it tastes like when ingredients are well-loved.

With the glistening sea on your right, zoom down cliffside roads from Antibes to Monaco, passing Tête de Chien, a village that separates the kingdom from France. Monaco is nestled between the mountains and sea, and what the small country lacks in area, it makes up for in striking skyscrapers and world-famous opulence.

Things to do and see

Explore Port Hercules

Monaco’s main harbor is filled with boats of every size, including some of the world’s largest yachts. Enjoy a meal or a drink at one of the harbor-side restaurants, or consider a boat tour to glide along the coast, taking in a different perspective of the Riveria.

Villa Paloma and Villa Sauber

These two stunning aristocratic residences now house the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco contemporary art collections. Both have splendid gardens which are open to visitors.

The Casino de Monte-Carlo

Monaco’s iconic landmark. When you arrive, you’ll be surrounded by marble, luxury stores and the Casino’s infamous display of rare, expensive cars. Of course, the building is mainly known as a casino, but there is also a renowned thermal spa carved into the rock beneath the roulette tables and slot machines. Enter through the marble lobby, change into a swimsuit, bathrobe and slippers and soon find yourself with scores of other relaxed people swimming in a heated saltwater pool.

Where to eat and drink

Le Salon Rose

This restaurant is tucked away in the back of the Monte Carlo. Is it a gamble to get wonton soup? Perhaps. Is it delicious? Definitely.

Bar Américain

This is the perfect spot to order a classic cocktail and listen to live jazz. Here, you can dance well into the night with strangers, singing in unison, asking each other gleefully, giddily and perhaps glamorously, “What’s going on?”

The French Rivera is where glamour and elegance meet a careless freedom. Opulence lives alongside rugged cliffsides. And Nice is its heart. Rustic cafes line cobblestone streets, and the smell of salt stains the breeze. And just a drive away are coastal towns like Antibes, Cannes and even the country of Monaco, making Nice the perfect introduction to a sun-soaked, southern France getaway.

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